- August 96: Purchased the Savage with windshield and sissy bar.
- September 96: Changed brake fluid and exchanged brake line for a
Stahlflex from Lucas. Who knows how "good" a nine year old rubber hose might be.
- Sealed minor leak on the gear lever (remove cover and
don't spare the silicon). To remove the cover, the exhaust needs to be removed also
(four bolts - not a problem). The exhaust must not have been removed in nine years. The
nuts were rusted in and the studs broke while trying to remove the nuts by force. I had to
get new studs welded on for a case of Warsteiner beer (back then, I didn't own a welding
machine)
- November 96: A new set of tires. The looked good when I bought the
bike, but the must have been quite old. The rear tire was completely gone after 2000 miles.
I should have tried a burnout!
- Changed foot pegs, gear lever peg and handles,
everything make "Sundance" with exchangeable "O" rings.
- February 97: After a few rides in the winter salt and useless
attempts of removing it, I had to realize, that the engine covers were corroded - wonderful!
The rest of the laquer was just hanging in pieces. Removed the covers and polished them
to a high gloss. Well, that was a messy job. But now they look much better and they stay
in shape, because of the smoother surface.
- April 97: High oil consumption (smoked the neighborhood). A valve
stem seal must have been gone, oil entered the cylinder (messy) via valve shaft. Remove
valves via valve press (see T + T) and exchange the valve stem seals. Because of the gar mess, the
valves needed to be grinded (T + T). I noticed a small damage on the camshaft and on a valve
rocker arm. Some material had been squeezed, probably the cause of low oil in the past. Asked a
senior technician he told me, that I could still ride with the camshaft damage, but the
valve rocker arm needed to be exchanged. Keep monitoring the camshaft and see if the
damage gets worse. Luckily, the damage did not get any worse and I got away with 60 bucks
for the rocker arm. Update: Since then 9,500 miles have past and the condition is still the
same. Who say's that oil enters the cylinder only through the valves. For safety reasons, I
replaced the cylinder head gasket and I also measured the piston rings. They were too loose.
Replaced them for another 60 bucks. The longest stud broke, while I tightened it with a
torque wrench. Welded nut on top to remove it. (even big pliers did not help) Paid 40
bucks for the new one and it was quite some action to get it done. This would have been
expensive if I would have had to pay a mechanic. Pictures can be adored in the picture gallery.
- July 97: Timing chain rattles - put a new one in.
- The seat vinyl is worn out, ripped and moisture comes from
underneath. Exchanged seat cover at upholstery shop for about 80 bucks.
- August 97: Saddlebags and fixtures mounted. Those leather bags
have a large capacity of 20 liters.
- September 97: New signals for the front and back, they look much
better and the saddle bags fit now. I mounted the new signals at the end of the fender.
- December 97: Exchanged the H-4 bulbs for the new halogen bulbs (
not those silly yellow things but the new + 30 % enhanced ones). They are really good, will never use the old ones.....
- Will not cold start, even after using starter cables. The cause: some soot
was stuck between in the valve - compression gone. That’s why the motor
rotated easily without any noise coming from the exhaust. A new valve-grinding job did
the rest - back running again.
- April 98: Changed suspension springs (new one's from Wilbers, see
address list) and oil in the
fork. "NOW" that’s a difference. The fork dives much less when applying the brake. The new
springs are about 6 inches longer but the distance holders are much shorter. They will not
hit the end so easy. That was a smart investment! The old suspension oil can easy be
removed by using a 5-foot hose and a plastic bottle - just squeeze the bottle to siphon the
oil. That also has the advantage that you do not have to remove the fork, you can have
the cycle stand on its side stand. Be very careful and secure the stand from folding
back, it will fold easy without the support of the front wheel.
- A short while after the front suspension job, a leak shows on the
fork seal. The old oil didn't try to get out, but the new one... Repairing with the
spring in place was impossible. We welded together a special tool according to Henning's
suggestion (see T + T). That tool has come in handy many times. The new mounted seal did the job for about
four bucks. I had the material for the tool (one stud and two nuts). And yes, I also
spent about thirty bucks on a small hydraulic car lift. Together with the cycle’s side
stand, it makes a nice tool to jack the bike in any position. Put some material underneath in order
not to scratch the frame. I exchanged the seal with the fork pipe in its place - why
disassemble more than necessary?
- May 98: After 10,000 miles on the rear and 11,250 miles on the
front tire, they had to be renewed. Not bad of a usage for those Bridgestone’s! Due to urgency, I
mounted a Bridgestone as rear tire and a Metzeler in front. The Metzeler should have a better
grip - not only in rain! It should also give more stability, especially in curves. Shall
see! Attention: The German TUV does not allow two different brands of tires on every bike -
see your registration - it will have it listed.
Next project: The belt and the rear pulley are almost gone.....
support of the front wheel.
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